Guide to Classic Straight Shaving

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The old-world, masculine charm of the straight razor shave is undeniable. Not since the days of Al Capone or the Old West have high end men's grooming salons and products been so in demand as they are now, thanks to vast improvements in the technology, service and availability of the classic shave. But straight razor shaving still remains an art, and in most cases should be left to well-trained professionals; however, for those interested, this little practicum will provide you the basics to properly care for your face and skin before, during, and after so you can enjoy the pleasures of the gentlemanly shave.

Preparation

Prepare the face by showering before shaving. This allows moist heat to open pores and soften facial hair. If you are in the habit of shaving 'pre-shower', use hot water, or hot, soaked towels for the same effect. Be patient. Warming and moistening the face properly is an important step for several reasons, but mostly because it provides for a close and satisfying nick-free shave. A couple of minutes under hot towels prepare the skin nicely, preventing razor drag and allowing the barba (facial hair) to soften beneath the skin's surface.

*Note: We do not recommend washing the face pre-shave in most cases; soaps and washes can remove protective oils naturally secreted around hair follicles and pores. We want the oils to help protect the skin; there will be time for washing later! With the pores wide open, it's paramount to use the most thoughtful products, as pre-shave skin has now become a funnel to the body and bloodstream. Anything used now should be almost edible!

Pre-Shave Oil

Applying the right pre-shave oil moisturizes the shaving area, helps reduce drag and can act as an antiseptic. For those of you who do not use these products in your shaving regimen, prepare for a "wow, that feels so much better!" moment.

Shaving Cream

Proper shave cream should be a highly alkaline formula, softening almost on contact with the hair shaft. It should continue the pore-opening process and, if formulated properly, should further moisturize the face and be safe for the body.

Applying

Applying Shaving lather with a high-end shaving brush (such as a badger brush), while not essential, can improve the experience immensely. Aside from the 'cool' factor, a good brush will lift hair follicles, produce a thicker, more luxurious lather, and exfoliate. Besides which, there's no substitute for the sensation of a well-made brush lathering your face and neck; this is a gentleman's way to turn a daily chore into an indulgence. The lather should be applied to your face in a paintbrush motion using the badger brush. Wipe away any extra with a hot towel.

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